Learning from ExperienceWhen Jacob’s grandpa, Jim Mumford, first bought llamas in 1980, relatively little was known about raising them in the United States. Most owners and breeders at that time learned through trial and error. Fortunately, some — like Jacob’s dad and grandpa — already had extensive experience with other livestock, including cattle, swine, sheep, goats, horses, ponies, poultry, and even rare and exotic birds. That background gave them an excellent foundation for understanding and caring for llamas.
Jacob learned about llama care by growing up on a llama farm. Over the years, he and Meggan have continued learning by asking questions, connecting with other owners and breeders, and attending trainings at OSU’s Veterinary School as well as llama and sheep industry workshops.
We don’t claim to have all the answers — in fact, we embrace the reality that after all these years, we’re still learning! We’re proud to be lifelong learners. While there are some websites and individuals who claim to have every answer about llamas, we know that’s simply not possible — and it’s not our style. Instead, we invite you to learn how we have successfully raised llamas over the years — what has worked for us. Take what you find useful and leave the rest.
VeterinariansLlamas are generally hardy animals and are often easy to handle. However, when you need a vet, you really need a vet! Smart owners — and prospective owners — establish a relationship with a veterinarian before purchasing their animals. Having that connection in place before an emergency arises can make all the difference.
Llamas are also very stoic animals and often do not show obvious signs of illness, injury, or disease. If you notice that something seems “off” with your llama, time is often of the essence.
Below are some veterinarians we know and recommend for our area.
Valley Veterinary (currently our farm veterinarian)
26072 US-30,
Rainier, OR 97048
503-556-3084
Mt View Veterinary (our previous vet, at this time we are unsure if they are continuing to see large animals but the owner has always been a great resource to our family)
13914 NE 16th Avenue,
Vancouver, WA
(360) 342-9324
Northwest Mobile Vet
Serving NW Oregon and SW Washington
(503) 765-6702
Amazia Veterinary Service
12303 NE 154th St, Brush Prairie, WA 98606
(360) 892-7524
Paros Veterinary Services
9222 Lundeen Rd. SW
Centralia, WA 98531
360-219-1023
Jacob learned about llama care by growing up on a llama farm. Over the years, he and Meggan have continued learning by asking questions, connecting with other owners and breeders, and attending trainings at OSU’s Veterinary School as well as llama and sheep industry workshops.
We don’t claim to have all the answers — in fact, we embrace the reality that after all these years, we’re still learning! We’re proud to be lifelong learners. While there are some websites and individuals who claim to have every answer about llamas, we know that’s simply not possible — and it’s not our style. Instead, we invite you to learn how we have successfully raised llamas over the years — what has worked for us. Take what you find useful and leave the rest.
VeterinariansLlamas are generally hardy animals and are often easy to handle. However, when you need a vet, you really need a vet! Smart owners — and prospective owners — establish a relationship with a veterinarian before purchasing their animals. Having that connection in place before an emergency arises can make all the difference.
Llamas are also very stoic animals and often do not show obvious signs of illness, injury, or disease. If you notice that something seems “off” with your llama, time is often of the essence.
Below are some veterinarians we know and recommend for our area.
Valley Veterinary (currently our farm veterinarian)
26072 US-30,
Rainier, OR 97048
503-556-3084
Mt View Veterinary (our previous vet, at this time we are unsure if they are continuing to see large animals but the owner has always been a great resource to our family)
13914 NE 16th Avenue,
Vancouver, WA
(360) 342-9324
Northwest Mobile Vet
Serving NW Oregon and SW Washington
(503) 765-6702
Amazia Veterinary Service
12303 NE 154th St, Brush Prairie, WA 98606
(360) 892-7524
Paros Veterinary Services
9222 Lundeen Rd. SW
Centralia, WA 98531
360-219-1023
Caring for LlamasKeeping and Caring for Llamas:
Caring for llamas is highly regionally dependent, which is why finding a nearby veterinarian is an important first step. A local mentor can also be invaluable — ideally a knowledgeable owner or breeder who’s willing to take the time to help you. Jacob is always available to answer questions or offer advice to people who have purchased llamas from us, as well as others seeking guidance. Sometimes that advice may be to contact a veterinarian, since it can be difficult to provide accurate help without seeing the animal in person. Regardless, we want to be a resource for new owners and breeders, so please don’t hesitate to reach out!
Shelter:
A shelter provides your llamas with a place to escape the elements. Llamas generally enjoy being outdoors and, given the choice, prefer an open-sided shelter that still feels “out in the field.” In extreme weather, more enclosed spaces are ideal for keeping llamas warm, dry, and ensuring that feed stays protected from rain or snow.
Feed:
Llamas are browsers and love to eat the natural vegetation growing in their pastures. Of course, weather and available space can affect the nutritional value of what’s on the field. Because we keep a relatively large herd on a smaller property, we feed hay year-round — as do many llama farms.
Llamas can do well on medium-quality feed, but the right diet depends on each animal’s condition, age, and purpose. A fat llama simply “out to pasture” can often maintain its weight on fairly marginal feed, whereas breeding llamas, working pack animals, or growing youngsters require higher-quality nutrition.
For many years, the majority of our feed has been 2nd or 3rd cutting orchard grass/alfalfa mix, supplemented with some eastern Washington timothy hay and occasional “local” hay (grown west of the Cascades), particularly for our adult males.
We also feed pelleted feed and grain to our growing youngsters from the time they begin nibbling (usually around 1–2 months of age) until they’re about two years old. We use a local corn/oats/barley/mineral mix from Rietdyk’s Milling Co. combined with Haystack Special Blend pellets. We feed grain in pans on the ground and have never had issues with choke, although some owners have reported problems with pelleted feeds and grains — so it’s something to monitor and be aware of.
Caring for llamas is highly regionally dependent, which is why finding a nearby veterinarian is an important first step. A local mentor can also be invaluable — ideally a knowledgeable owner or breeder who’s willing to take the time to help you. Jacob is always available to answer questions or offer advice to people who have purchased llamas from us, as well as others seeking guidance. Sometimes that advice may be to contact a veterinarian, since it can be difficult to provide accurate help without seeing the animal in person. Regardless, we want to be a resource for new owners and breeders, so please don’t hesitate to reach out!
Shelter:
A shelter provides your llamas with a place to escape the elements. Llamas generally enjoy being outdoors and, given the choice, prefer an open-sided shelter that still feels “out in the field.” In extreme weather, more enclosed spaces are ideal for keeping llamas warm, dry, and ensuring that feed stays protected from rain or snow.
Feed:
Llamas are browsers and love to eat the natural vegetation growing in their pastures. Of course, weather and available space can affect the nutritional value of what’s on the field. Because we keep a relatively large herd on a smaller property, we feed hay year-round — as do many llama farms.
Llamas can do well on medium-quality feed, but the right diet depends on each animal’s condition, age, and purpose. A fat llama simply “out to pasture” can often maintain its weight on fairly marginal feed, whereas breeding llamas, working pack animals, or growing youngsters require higher-quality nutrition.
For many years, the majority of our feed has been 2nd or 3rd cutting orchard grass/alfalfa mix, supplemented with some eastern Washington timothy hay and occasional “local” hay (grown west of the Cascades), particularly for our adult males.
We also feed pelleted feed and grain to our growing youngsters from the time they begin nibbling (usually around 1–2 months of age) until they’re about two years old. We use a local corn/oats/barley/mineral mix from Rietdyk’s Milling Co. combined with Haystack Special Blend pellets. We feed grain in pans on the ground and have never had issues with choke, although some owners have reported problems with pelleted feeds and grains — so it’s something to monitor and be aware of.
